We have a 2nd post from the super talented Christina Anderson here for you today!!
“La Diabla,#13”
CM Anderson-Salvaged Remnants Studio
2014
Copier/Printer Heavyweight White Cardstock. 8.5’’x11’’ White copier paper
2-Metal Tart/Gelatin Molds, Small
in size (approx. 3”-4” in diameter x
1.5”-2” tall)
– the “skirt” tin needs a flat bottom surface to attach the paper doll
Tins available in thrift stores, on
Etsy,import stores, etc.
Decorated Scrapbook papers,
one sheet each of a heavy weight and a
lighter weight
Decorative tissue paper Mod Podge
4”x4” wood block (1/2” to ¾”
thickness) 10”x1/5”diameter wood
dowel
¾”x ½” electrical reducer
(Home Depot)
19 gauge Dark Annealed Steel
Wire-16 feet (Hardware store, craft store, on-line supplier)
10-20 feet of 24 gauge copper
or jewelry wire
E-6000 Adhesive Permanent Glue Stick
Acrylic paints Colored Pencils Pencil
Mini Paper Brads-10
1 ¼” long Thin finishing
nails-6 ¾” long, thin nails-2
1 small ½” long wood screw
and small diameter washer
Assortment of Czech glass
beads
Tools:
Scissors Exacto knife Ruler
Ball peen hammer Phillips head screwdriver
Variable Speed Drill 1/8” Drill Bit Wood scrap plank to drill on
Pliers-Side cutting, Round
nose, Chain nose Flat Needle File Metal cutting Shears
1/8” paper hole punch Artists’ paintbrushes
Large Nail to punch holes in
metal Awl or large upholtery
needle
3M brand scrubbie pad Protective eyewear
#1- Gather your
supplies. (A) On white copier paper,
print the large art doll stamp, minus the legs, and the bat wings in the corner
of the paper. (B) Increase the size
of the stampings to a total of 125%, print out on the heavy, white cardstock.
Some adjustments may be needed according to your stamp layout, size of tins,
intensity of printout.
#2-On your wood block, measure and
mark the center for the electrical
reducer. Center and trace around the reducer.
#3-Using the
instuctions from the “Romp & Frolic” tutorial, take the variable speed
drill with the 1/8” drill bit, drill a hole opposite each other on the sides of
the reducer.Drill 6 holes around the perimeter of the reducer (where the points
stick out the furthest). (A) Clean
out the burs with your Exacto knife. (B)
Nail the reducer to the wood block, use the rounded end of the ball peen hammer
to tap the nails all the way down. (C)
Set the dowel into the reducer, drill a pilot hole into the dowel using the
previously drilled side holes as a guide. (D)
Apply a generous amount of E-6000 to the pre-drilled end and set back into the
reducer. Make sure to line the dowel holes up with the reducer holes. (E) Tap a small nail into each side of
the reducer/dowel end to keep the dowel in place while the glue cures.
#4-Mark your
tins for holes as follows:
Base/bottom tin- measure the edge of the tin for eight holes, evenly spaced. If
this tin does not have a center opening at the top, mark for center. (A)The top (“skirt”) tin needs four
evenly spaced holes on it’s edge and four evenly spaced holes on the flat
surface in a square pattern, with a hole for center.Looking ahead at step #8- the square patterned holes on top, are
centered over one of the the four edge holes! This is important to do for building this art doll.
Use the large nail,hammer,
and wood plank to punch holes through the tins.
(B)-Use the
needle file to smooth out the burs. (C)-
Ream out the holes with the end of a pointy file and smooth out with the
flat file, alternating, making sure that the holes are large enough to
accommodate the wire brads, nails, and steel wire.
#5- Closer
views of holes for “skirt” tin and dry fitting for brads.
#6- For the “base” tin, enlarge the
punched hole at the center top with metal cutting shear in a radial (pie slice)
pattern.
(A)
Use the round
end of the ball peen hammer to gently tap the “slices” inward, then tap the
slices closer to the tin.
(B)
Take the 3M
scrubby and gently clean the outsides of your tins.
#7-Crinkle
and re-flatten the tissue paper. Collage the tissue paper onto the dowel and
base of the doll. When dry, use acrylic paint washes to enhance/distress/age
the tissue paper. Set aside to dry. When dry, remember to glue paper to the
bottom of the base, then sign and date your artwork.
#8- Cut out
the enlarged, cardstock stampings, taking care to leave a 1” long “tab” at the
bottom of the torso stampings.
In the inset of #8, I lined up where the torso tab needs to be folded to have
room to punch out holes for attaching the doll.
Mark/measure that crease for further reference. Use the permanent glue stick to
FIRMLY attach all 7 sections to the BACK of the heavyweight piece of scrapbook
paper. Use a bone folder, brayer, etc, to make sure the pieces are well
adhered.
Step #9 has been condensed and
included into Step #10-so, no, you aren’t going crazy!
#10- Cut out
the pieces fron the scrapbook paper. Glue the lightweight scrapbook paper to
the exposed side of the torso sections; cut out. I colored in the head,wings,
& arms with pencils BEFORE I trimmed them. Better grippage while coloring! (A) Line up the head section on one of
the torso sections, punch shoulder holes with the 1/8” hole punch. Align the
two torso sections with the “insides” together (purple paper on this doll) and
punch through the previous shoulder holes. (B)
Select the position for the bat wings, punch holes and attach wings to
shoulders with the brads.
#11- Remember the crease measurement
from Step #8? Time to use it! Line up both torsos at said measurement, set a
ruler on top of the INSIDE of the torsos at that measurement, THEN, veeeeeery carefully, using the BACK of the Exacto blade, score a
crease into the paper! Voila! (B)
Crease & trim the tabs to fit on the skirt tin, attach with the mini brads.
I had to punch another hole in this doll as it was a bit “twisty” when I dry
fit the shoulders together.
#12-Slide
the large hole tin on to the doweled base. Line the 8 holes at the edge as best
as you can with the side centers & corners of the wood block. The CORNER
HOLES are nailed first! If necessary,drill shallow pilot (starter) holes at an
angle through the tin hole through to the wood block.Tap these four nails in
until they touch the surface of the tin.
The 4 nails that center the
block sides are tapped in about ¾ of the way. These are anchors for the steel
wire.
#13-(A) Use the awl or upholstery needle to punch a hole
through the cardstock on the tin skirt. Make sure this set-up will accommodate
the wood screw without being too tight, otherwise the wood dowel may split.
Ream and debur with the needle files from step #4, as needed. (B) Find the center of the dowel at the
top end, carefully drill down deep enough to fit the wood screw later. (C) Hand start the wood screw through
the washer and skirt tin BEFORE setting into the dowel end. Add
a generous amount of E-600 to the dowel end.Fit the point of the screw end into
the dowel hole, tighten down sloooooowly
with the Phillips head screwdriver.
Now,in this order, attach the paper doll head, torso front, arms and torso back
together with the mini brads and get ready for some (messy) steel wire FUN!
A little info on “dark annealed
steel wire”…..
First, it is my all time favorite staple to use in my art.
Jewelry,collage,assemblage,this inexpensive,forgiving,lowly construction
material, cannot be BEAT! However, two minor drawbacks, it takes stronger hands
to use, so pliers are the way to go for shaping. Because of the annealing
process to make it pliable, it is oily when you first get it & covered in
carbon powder. Use a 3M brand kitchen scrubbie to clean it off before shaping
and keep lots of handwipes around!
#14- With the side cutting pliers,
cut four 30” lengths of the annealed wire. Fold the scrubbie in half and pull
the wire through the fold a few times to remove the oil and carbon. Take each
length of wire and make a large, even ended “hairpin” shape.
Using the round nose pliers,
tighten the “U” shape bend down to the pliers and the roll the pliers around
twice to twist the hairpin together.Repeat with the other 3 hairpins.
#15- Thread
each hairpin through the back side of a
hole on the tin skirt edge ( the loop will be on the inside of the tin skirt).(A)At varying lengths down each of the
8 wire “tendrils”, make a loop with the round nose pliers to hang
embellishments from later. (B) Here you
can see where the longer end of the wire is wrapped around the back part of the
loop. Straighten out the tendrils
after you have completed the loops.
#16- (A) Take a tendril and wrap it once around a corresponding
nail that you tapped into the tin/base. From that point, take the next tendril
and wrap it around the next nail. (B) There
should be four long “V”s where the wire
meet at each nail. Throughout this process, keep checking the balance of the
doll at the top. You can unwrap the wire, straighten with the chain nose
pliers, and rewrap to keep the top from being wonky.
#17- (A) I curled the ends of the brads at
the doll’s shoulder with the round nose pliers. It was aesthectically more
pleasing than leaving them flat. (B) The
doll wass a bit tippy looking still, so I bent some of the wires to form a
diamond sillouette and create some tension where,structurally, there was a
little slack. (C) With the round
nose pliers, create some little,vine-like, curls. Weave the wires back through
each other to give the bottom of the doll a fuller look. No rules, just play!
This wire can take a lot of abuse before it breaks, unlike other metals.
I LOVE THIS STUFF!
#18- Time for adornment! (A) I ended up, at the last minute,
making her a crown of gears,beads and wire. The actual join is not as well
hidden as I would like it to be, so better planning next time. (B) I cut a variety of lengths from the
24 gauge copper wire to make some beaded embellishments to hang from all those
loops. (C) I made some primative looking
eye pins, strung a bead, and
then hooked them through the steel wire loops. They are closed off by loosely
wrapping the end around the “dangly” part. Some of the ends were long enough to
make some vine-y ends.
I wired up some chain to the
loops of the hairpins that were put through the tin skirt edge and hung some
extra beads from it. You can use ribbon, thread, charms, bits of paper
ephemera, etc., to fill out your doll’s skirt.
It’s however you feel she needs to “be”!
Instructions,Assemblage
Sculpture,Photos,
By
Christina M. Anderson
aka CM Anderson/Salvaged Remnants Studio
2014
Intellectual Property of CM Anderson
